Chris Ingersoll

Experienced board gamers are always on the look-out for a simple “gateway game” that can introduce new players to more-strategic, less luck-based gaming. Many keep a copy of Ticket to Ride available for just such an occasion, as the game’s simple mechanics are easy to teach and quick to play. It has also won numerous awards since its 2004 release, including the prestigious Spiel des Jahres (a Germany-based Game of the Year award). Ticket to Ride is in many ways considered to be the archetypical “rail game”. Players compete to connect various American cities via train routes that criss-cross the country (as well as spilling over into some neighboring Canadian provinces). To complete a route, you simply need to collect the corresponding number of colored cards. The length of the route determines how many points it is worth. Additional points are available at the end of the game for completing Destination Tickets; any uncompleted Tickets in your possession are deducted from your score, so plan accordingly. There is also a one-time bonus of ten points for the player with the longest continuous chain of routes. Each player begins the game by being dealt four Tickets and keeping at least two; they also start with four route cards. On your turn, you have three choices: 1) draw two route cards from the face-up array or from the top of the deck (if you want to take a Wild card, you may only take one card that turn); 2) draw four Tickets and keep at least one (returning the rest to the bottom of the deck); or 3) complete a route using the cards in your hand. The final round begins once one player has used at least forty-three of his forty-five train cars (each car represents one segment of a route), at which point each player receives one more turn.

The game’s strategy comes from planning your routes and balancing your choices each turn. Only one player may claim a given route, so you might find your plans crushed to pieces if you take an extra turn to draw cards, allowing one of your rivals to claim that route instead. Some cities are connected by multiple routes (except in a 3-player game), and you can usually arrange for a detour, but that doesn’t change the fact that many of the cards you’ve spent precious time collecting may now be less useful to your designs. The other main strategic decision involves whether you want to attempt one continuous series of routes to connect as many Destinations as possible or to simply claim as many high-scoring Routes as possible and grab Destinations as they become convenient. As mentioned, Ticket to Ride is easy to play, with its core gameplay centering around collecting sets of colored cards. It may actually border on being too simple for more experienced players, who will have passed through this particular gateway a long time ago. Outside of a more casual group/setting, Ticket to Ride is unlikely to feature prominently in an evening’s festivities, but for those times when it is approrpriate, it will definitely hold its own.

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When it comes to dividing the “casual” board gamer from the “serious” (some might suggest “elitist”) gamer, the dividing line is usually clear: dice and the lack thereof. Dice are essentially the embodiment of blind, uncontrollable luck. While very few games are completely devoid of the element of luck, many of the best do as much as they can to make its impact minimal and thus maximize strategy.

This doesn’t make games that heavily rely on dice un-fun, however. Consider the classic game of Yahtzee, which is essentially just a series of poker hands played with dice. As you play Yahtzee, you are completely at the mercy of luck every time you roll; the most you can do is reduce the impact by making accurate assessment of the odds of rolling what you need/want. Failing that, you have to make the strategic decision of where to place your (possibly sub-optimal) roll on the scoresheet. There isn’t a whole lot of control to be found in Yahtzee, and yet it has endured as a family favorite for decades.

To Court the King takes many of the elements found in Yahtzee and gives you an additional degree of control over your fate. The ultimate object of TCtK is to roll (at least) seven-of-a-kind and win the attention of the King; the catch is that you begin with the ability to roll only three dice. In order to work your way up to the King, you first need to win the influence of lesser members of the court and work your way up the social ladder.

The members of the court are represented by illustrated cards not unlike those found in a collectible card game like Magic: the Gathering. Each card has two symbols on it: the combination (or in some cases, total) of dice needed to recruit the character, and the effect the character allows you to employ once per turn. These effects include giving you an additional die (or two) to roll initially, rerolling one or more dice without counting against you, adding a die of a specific value, or modifying (if not outright fixing) the values of rolled dice. Each time you roll, you must set at least one die in reserve before rerolling; other than that restriction, you can reroll as often as your total of dice allows. You can also only recruit a given character once, with the exception of the Fool, who is the “Chance” result of this game and can be recruited with any result, allowing you to reroll a single die; if you are unfortunate enough to recruit him the second time, he turns into the Charlatan, who instead allows you to roll an additional die. The final wrinkle is that there are a limited number of each character available, depending on the number of players; characters obviously become increasingly rare as you move up the hierarchy.

The combined result is a fast-paced series of rolls, using your assembled host of characters to claw your way up to capture the King’s attention with a magnificent seven-of-a-kind. The first player to accomplish this automatically earns the right to use the Queen (who lets you add one die of any value) and triggers the Final Round. Each player, in turn, gets one more chance to out-do the current “top roll”. For example, if the Final Round was initated with a roll of seven fours, the next player would need to roll either seven fives, seven sixes, or eight (or more) of anything; this continues down the line, with each player trying to best the current high roll, ending with the player controlling the Queen. Whoever has the highest roll after his last chance wins both control of the King and the game.

Even with the characters’ various abilities, the game is still dominated by luck. As soon as someone has access to seven dice, the threat of the Final Round being initiated becomes very real. If you don’t have enough dice to compete when that time comes, you effectively get eliminated right away without a final chance, which can be disheartening.

One of the nice benefits of being so heavily reliant on luck is that anyone can win with the right series of rolls, which makes games like To Court the King perfect for families and other casual gaming groups. There is no reading required, and very little actual math (unlike Yahtzee), so anyone old enough to not default to putting the dice in his/her mouth should be able to play successfully. To Court the King isn’t going to win any awards, but it will win over anyone who enjoys a quick game that anyone can play.

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Among the (unplugged) gaming community, there are few names as respected — or as prolific — as Reiner Knizia’s. The German designer has over 200 games on his resume, with 1997’s Tigris & Euphrates (T&E) considered his crowning achievement by many. T&E is a tile-laying game that encourages players to adopt a balanced approach to scoring victory points (VPs) as they attempt to wield the most influence in the cradle of civilization. While there are four categories of points, your final score is determined by your lowest score among them at the end of the game; for example, if you have collected 30 black VPs, 30 red VPs, 30 Blue VPs, but only 1 green VP, then your score is one and you will most likely finish dead last despite your dominance in the other three categories.

In order to achieve these victory points, you will need to place your Leaders and Civilization Tiles (henceforth just “tiles”) carefully using your two actions each turn; you can also use actions to discard tiles from your reserve and replace them or to place one of your two a space-negating Catastrophe Tiles. Each tile represents one area of a region, and each type (color) of area has its correspondingly-colored leader. When a tile is played adjacent to a kingdom (any area containing at least one leader), whoever controls the corresponding leader scores a VP of that tile’s color, regardless of who actually placed the tile; the black leader (“king”) can collect VPs of any color if the corresponding leader is not present in his kingdom.

There are three special plays that make things a bit more complicated than that: 1) Completing a 2×2 block of one color’s tiles creates a VP-generating Monument on top of them (and essentially removes those four tiles from play), which can be very powerful; 2) Placing a leader in a kingdom that already contains a leader of that same color triggers an internal conflict that will oust one of them from the kingdom (and board); and 3) uniting two kingdoms with a tile triggers external conflicts between their matching leaders and usually results in one half of the kingdom becoming devastated (and potentially massive VPs scored) in the war. Conflicts are resolved by the two players in question discarding tiles from their reserves and adding those to the leaders’ respective strength in the kingdom; ties go to the defending player.

At the end of each player’s turn, all players replenish their reserves until they have six tiles. The game ends and VPs are scored either when the last tile is drawn or then fewer than three Treasures remain on the board. Treasures are “wild” VPs claimed by the green leader (“trader”) when there are two or more Treasures in a given kingdom; one Treasure remains and the owner of the trader takes the rest. Players may arrange any Treasures they have earned in whatever way they choose for scoring purposes. In the event of a tie for the lowest total, the next-lowest totals of the tied players are checked, and so on until the tie is broken.

The game pieces themselves are every bit as solid as the mechanics, with heavy cardboard tiles, wooden VP cubes characteristic of European titles (small one-pointers and larger five-pointers), and wooden Monuments that really catch attention (and need some slight assembly). The thin cardboard screens that hide both a player’s reserve tiles and accumulated VPs aren’t that impressive, however, but they serve their purpose; they also have convenient reminders as to what actions are allowed on your turn and brief summaries of both types of conflict. Rounding out the package are two sets of rules, one detailed and the other brief.

While most players will grasp the basics of the game quickly due to the simple mechanics, the deeper strategies take some time to develop, especially where conflicts are concerned; my group generally allows takebacks if a newer player makes a misplay like forgetting how the conflicts work. There is a frustrating element of randomness when it comes to which tiles are drawn, but I consider that one of those necessary evils that encourage adaptability and strategy; besides, sometimes the Gods just aren’t on your side. Aside from that and the limited number of players (three or four; rules variants can also be found for two), I can’t find any faults with T&E and would highly recommend it to any gaming group that enjoys strategic games of this nature; it may not appeal to more casual gamers, but at around 90 minutes to play it couldn’t hurt to have them give it a try.

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When the Wii’s unique controller was first unveiled, many critics pointed to the Metroid Prime 3: Corruption demos as the ultimate selling point. Some even declared the remote and nunchuck controls superior to the much-beloved mouse and keyboard. Unfortunately, Corruption was pulled from the launch, and pushed back to an unspecified date. What gamers lucky enough to snag a Wii got instead were games like Red Steel, Far Cry Vengeance, Call of Duty 3, and Medal of Honor: Vanguard, all of which received mediocre reviews at best.

As usual, gamers would have to wait for Nintendo’s own effort (via Retro Studios, in this case) to show everyone how to treat their system right — even if it took nine months longer than promised. Fortunately, as with most nine-month waits, Corruption is a joyous delivery.

Corruption concludes the Metroid Prime series, once again featuring bounty hunter Samus Aran kicking copious amount of Space Pirate ass as she explores an alien world — or in this case, four or five worlds. Instead of the traditional Metroid set-up of one “hub” area and several sub-locales, Corruption puts Samus’s Gunship to use and has you jetting back and forth between planets. But that’s not the real innovation here, so let’s get the control discussion out of the way first. Bear in mind that, since my personal FPS experience consists entirely of the Metroid Prime series and Goldeneye 64, I won’t be able to make valid comparisons between the Wii’s “point and shoot” interface and dual-analog or mouse/keyboard controls.

While the game offers three degrees of turning sensitivity and an option to use the traditional lock-on, most experienced gamers will probably opt for the “Advanced” control boasted about in the game’s ads. After an initial adjustment period, Corruption‘s interface becomes largely intuitive, with A used to shoot and B to jump. Some modifications from the other Primes‘ controls were necessary due to the Remote’s lack of buttons, though. For example, now you fire missiles by pressing down on the D-Pad. The remote is also occasionally used for certain gestural interfaces, like pulling levers and turning dials, which are well-executed and help immerse you in the game’s world.

The Morph Ball activation is found on the nunchuk’s C button instead of on your “active” hand. While rolling around in third person, most of your controls remain as you probably remember them, although Corruption adds the ability to jump by flicking the Remote up. This maneuver effectively marginalizes the classic “Bomb Jump” technique (now only required once, to get an optional pickup), but it doesn’t always seem to work as expected; I found that I got the most dependable jumping results when Samus was absolutely still, so you might want to keep that in mind.

The Z button lets you lock on to a target, which is still useful in this “free aiming” world for your homing missiles, side-jumping, and — perhaps most importantly — grappling. On that subject, the nunchuck controls Samus’s Grapple Beam thusly: when locked on to a viable grapple point, flicking the nunchuck forward deploys the grapple, and pulling back tells Samus to flex her muscles and yank off detachable pieces of plating and whatnot. It’s a great change to see the Grapple being used as an addition to Samus’s already-formidable arsenal, as some enemies can only be defeated by the physical force it provides — either directly or by stripping away armor — and the gestural interface for doing so is brilliant in both concept and execution.

Overall, I had very few problems adapting to these new controls. Most of the issues I did have were centered around the awkward placement of the – button (used to change visors) and + button (used to engage Hyper Mode, which I’ll get to later), especially with the Home button being nestled in between them. There were definitely times when I went to change visors in the heat of battle and came perilously close to either resetting the game or going back to the Wii Menu, which would have been disastrous. The only other problem I had was occasionally hitting the C button when I wanted to hit Z or vice versa. Everything else worked as advertised, and found the control scheme to be highly efficient and immersive.

Of course, like any Metroid title, most of your cool tricks have to wait until you collect the necessary upgrades. At least Samus starts off Corruption better-equipped than usual; you won’t have to earn the right to access your Morph Ball Bombs, Space Jump, or Charge Beam this time, and you quickly re-acquire your Missile Launcher and Grapple Lasso. Everything else you’ll have to find as you explore the worlds of Corruption. This includes some “old standards” (Spider Ball, Screw Attack, etc.) as well as some new tricks.

In Metroid Prime 2: Echoes, most of Samus’s new toys centered around the game’s “light and dark worlds” theme. In Corruption, they mostly center around the new Phazon Enhancement Device (PED Suit) and the Hyper Mode it enables. Early on in the plot, Samus’s body begins to generate Phazon, the corruptive energy/goo that has defined the series. The PED Suit allows Samus to channel some of her energy into ultra-powerful Phazon blasts that quickly dispatch her enemies (some of whom can enter Hyper Mode themselves) while becoming essentially invulnerable. This great power, however, runs the risk of corrupting Samus with Phazon. Leave Hyper Mode on for too long and she’ll need to discharge quickly, lest she be overcome.

Balancing the risks of Hyper Mode with the need to harness its power is just one of the problems players face as they play Corruption. Space Pirates, environmental hazards, native predators, intricate puzzles, enormous bosses, and of course energy-leeching Metroids all stand between Samus and the completion of her mission — and they’ve got new tricks of their own to keep Samus on her power-suited toes.

Players will have to keep their eyes and ears open throughout the game, but this shouldn’t be a problem as Corruption continues with the series’s impressive production values. Metroid Prime and its sequel Echoes produced some of the prettiest visuals and sweetest sounds on the GameCube, and Retro has brought that same attention to visual and aural detail to the Wii. Nobody purchased a Wii for eye- or ear-candy, but the system can definitely still provide it when asked, and without any noticeable slowdown.

Of course, the Wii simply isn’t as powerful as the other systems out there these days, and it does show if you know where to look. The graphics don’t always stand up to close inspection, which is especially noticeable with regards to doors. The Prime games pre-load the next room when you activate the door to keep gameplay seamless, but some rooms take longer to load than others. Especially complex rooms will leave you staring at a closed, pixelated door for upwards of maybe seven seconds, which can be highly inconvenient if enemies are around. It’s not a lot of time in the grand scheme of things, but Metroid games feature a great deal of backtracking, so you’ll encounter the same slow doors frequently. As far as problems with the sound goes, I don’t recall the Remote’s speaker being used for anything; hearing a metroid’s shriek right in my personal space when one latches on to me would have been awesome. If the speaker was used, it was so subtle I didn’t notice.

Other than the controls, perhaps the biggest functional change between Corruption and its GameCube predecessors is what it is missing rather than what has been added. Unlike in the previous two Prime titles, there is no beam switching in Corruption; Samus still acquires beam upgrades throughout the game, but instead of switching between them, their effects just stack onto the basic beam. This eliminates a lot of the largely pointless switching just to open doors, but also eliminates concepts like enemies that can only be defeated by a certain type of beam. Super Missiles, Power Bombs, and Beam/Missile Combos are also lacking, although there are approximate analogues for the first two and the Combos weren’t really all that useful in the first place. In fact, there definitely seemed to be an overall “lack up power-ups” feeling, which I think was partially caused by not starting at zero; your initial armaments would represent upwards of four or five power-ups in previous titles. Finally, Corruption lacks any sort of multiplayer mode, although that’s not much of a loss; the multiplayer in Echoes always felt sort of tacked on, and the Metroid Prime Hunters DS title suggests that any future bounty hunter deathmatch action will be confined to its own spin-off series. I could definitely see an online MPH game for the Wii using Corruption‘s control scheme in the future for those who want it.

Corruption doesn’t completely ignore the Wii’s online functionality, however. Throughout the game, you receive credits for certain achievements: beating bosses, scanning enemies, and scanning lore entries. There is also a fourth type of achievement that earns you a “friend voucher”, usually for miscellaneous things like 100 kills, finding shortcuts, or especially stylish kills. These vouchers can be traded online to receive the final type of credit. This online trading uses your Wii’s system code, not a game-specific Friend Code, so trading is a relatively painless process if the friends already in your address book have the game. Credits can be spent to unlock extras, like concept art, musical tracks, and miscellaneous quirks like a Mii bobble-head for the dashboard of Samus’s Gunship.

Corruption offers around fifteen to twenty hours of gameplay on Normal Difficulty if you make the effort to collect all the pickups. There are also two higher levels of difficulty if you want further challenge or more boss credits. Using the same save file allows you to retain your scans from previous playthroughs, allowing you to concentrate more on survival… or enjoying the scenery, depending on which which way you go. The advantage of free-aiming might actually make Normal difficulty too easy for experienced gamers, who may want to start on Veteran and then breeze through Normal later to pick up credits and scans.

No matter which difficulty setting you tackle first, Metroid Prime 3: Corruption will fulfill a lot of the promises made about the Wii when it was released last year. The first “hardcore” title for the system that was actually designed for it from the beginning, Corruption proves that the Wii is capable of more than just minigame collections and golf games.

Growing up, one of my favorite game shows was Press Your Luck; it was briefly reincarnated in the early 2000s under the name of its mascot, the Whammy — a playful little imp who delighted in taking away a contestant’s prize money should they be so unlucky to stop their “spin” on one of his spaces. The oft-repeated mantra of “No whammies, no whammies, no whammies… STOP!” has taken root in the pop culture lexicon, and you will frequently hear it invoked during playthroughs of Reiner Knizia’s Ra, a tile game combining an auction mechcanic with set-collection scoring system.

The object of Ra is to acquire the most fame (points) over three epochs (rounds) by the collecting of various types of tiles won during auctions. You can only win a limited number of auctions (which varies with the number of players) each epoch, and there is a chance that an epoch can end prematurely, denying you one or more chances at auctions.

To begin, each player is assigned a group of suns valued sequentially from two to thirteen (or to sixteen with five players); these are what you use to win auctions, with the highest sun bid winning. Each player also starts with ten points, represented by stone tablets in denominations of one, two, five, and ten. The tiles in the bag represent various aspects of ancient Egyptian culture that are needed in order to have a successful dynasty (scoring tiles), disasters that remove two of their corresponding scoring tiles from the auction winner’s possession, and tiles depicting Ra, the Egyptian Sun God. The tiles themselves are colorful and eye-catching, with basic but serviceable art very much in the style of Egyptian hieroglyphics; the Ra tiles in particular stand out with their bright red backgrounds — much like the Whammies of PYL. The quantities of each type of tile are listed on the game board for probability reference (e.g., “how many Floods are left in the bag?”).

On each player’s turn, he has three options: 1) pull a tile from the bag and place it on the auction track (or the Ra track if it is a Ra tile); 2) spend a God tile (won in auctions) to claim any one tile on the auction track; or 3) invoke Ra. Drawing a Ra tile or invoking Ra initiates an auction for all of the tiles currently on the auction track, plus the sun used to win the previous auction; the first completed auction of the game includes the sun valued at one, which can obviously only win an auction if you’re the only player placing a bid. The sun you win via auction is placed face-down in front of you for use in the next epoch (or for scoring after the third); when you are out of face-up suns, you are done for the epoch.

An epoch ends either when all players have used all of their suns or when the final Ra tile is placed on the Ra track — which is usually when the Whammy reference comes into play, as the final Ra tile ends the epoch immediately, discarding whatever tiles may remain on the auction track. This is especially true when only one player has any suns left and is essentially in sole control of the board. If your playgroup is anything like mine, the inherent tension created by “pressing your luck” is usually amplified by the other players (without suns) actively rooting for you to hit the “Whammy” and get screwed; sinister chants of “RA! RA! RA!” are not uncommon in my experience.

After each epoch, points are awarded for various criteria — and occasionally deducted for a lack of certain aspects. Certain tiles are discarded every epoch, and others are retained; the latter are noted by a symbol so inexperienced players know which are which. At the end of the third and final epoch, there are two additional scoring criteria. The highest total then wins.

As the default action of pulling a tile takes about five seconds, and auctions being restricted to one bid per player eliminates down on “arms race”-style bidding increments that can occur in other auction-based games, Ra features very little downtime. Even a five-player game shouldn’t take more than an hour to finish; three players can probably get done in around half that time. The only complaint most owners of the game have comes from the fact that at some point between editions the tiles became bigger than they were originally but the bag that you draw them from did not, creating a situation where it is difficult to “shuffle” them adequately; an upcoming reprinting of the game is said to correct this nuisance. Also, I highly recommend visiting BoardGameGeek’s Ra page and printing out one of the players’ mats/scoring sheets, which will help you keep things organized and greatly speed up play (especially scoring).

While there is a heavy luck element to Ra, it is restricted only to which tiles are pulled in what order. Everything else is public knowledge, so there is a high level of strategy balancing out the random tile draws. One of the key strategic elements is knowing when to invoke Ra, which can force players to make unfavorable bids if they really want something on the auction track — or possibly let you get what you want for your lowest-valued sun if no one else steps up. Just be sure you really want (or can at least make do with) what’s on the auction track — if Ra was invoked and no other player makes a bid, the player who invoked Ra must bid, to prevent invoking from being a stall tactic.

Do you place a higher bid to cut off later bidders from getting what they want (or at least from getting them cheaply) and risk “wasting” one of your own suns? How many Ra tiles are left in the bag, anyway? Should you bid now to trade one of your low-value suns for a higher-valued one for the next epoch, and pick up some extra points before that last Ra tile messes everything up? Can you afford to eat the losses that disaster tile will cause? Hey, Chris is really collecting a good amount of Monuments over there… should I try to stop him from racking up some major points in the final round? Questions like that are what makes Ra challenging — and a blast to play for the thinking gamer.

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